There is no water when I get up but it comes on for an hour while getting ready (but only a dribble so I still take a bucket shower). All I have left in the cubboard are two petite bananas, some Nutella, an avocado and a bag of salt, some green olives in the fridge.
It's 5:00 pm and time to scatter to each person's next thing. Hugs and goodbyes and confirmation of schedules. Benard is catching a bus to Nairobi @ 5:00 AM, Patrick is flying to Nairobi later in the morning. Patrick & Benard are disappointed to not have had the last lecture and ask if they can come over this evening after supper to receive it. John is going to accompany me to the Airport @ 1:30 Friday. I call Terry who is coming back from Butare and I catch a ride home with him.
I'm out the door, on a moto with my backpack to KHI. I've got educational materials to drop off in the office, my final report to give to the Rector and some ties I'll give the the faculty later today. A quick walk downtown to work through my shopping list. A friend back home has asked me to pick up a pharmaceutical that he uses while I'm here. It's much less expensive (Terry warns me about using foreign drugs from a foreign country but my friend is aware and the drug is not illegal). Also, I'm looking for some oil that is appropriate for the barber clippers I've purchased for Mpore Orphanage as well as a spray bottle that can be filled with chlorine mix for disinfecting the clippers.
Next a moto to a consortium of shops I've passed many times but have never stopped at. There 
are about 45 shop keepers with the average stall about 10 x 10 feet. They are packed with art objects and tourist items that vary only slightly from shop to shop. Each owner wants me to make an offer on whatever thing I've shown an interest. But I'm resolute. I'll look in every shop making a mental note of things I'm in which I'm actually interested. I'm really only looking for those items that really strike me as unique in quality, price or style. The one thing I've really coveted is a very large mask in the shop under the post office in town. But it's $100 US and is too large to fit into either of my trunks. Shipping is possible but would at at least $100 more. I compare every large mask to the one I've set my heart on and none match up. I'll end up leaving Rwanda with only small masks.
are about 45 shop keepers with the average stall about 10 x 10 feet. They are packed with art objects and tourist items that vary only slightly from shop to shop. Each owner wants me to make an offer on whatever thing I've shown an interest. But I'm resolute. I'll look in every shop making a mental note of things I'm in which I'm actually interested. I'm really only looking for those items that really strike me as unique in quality, price or style. The one thing I've really coveted is a very large mask in the shop under the post office in town. But it's $100 US and is too large to fit into either of my trunks. Shipping is possible but would at at least $100 more. I compare every large mask to the one I've set my heart on and none match up. I'll end up leaving Rwanda with only small masks. After going into every store/shop I've found an African game that is better in quality than any I've seen elsewhere with a good price but I've already made arrangements to buy three from my friend Royce later today. I found some gorgeous scarves and I head back to barter. The price starts @ 5,000 FRw and won't budge , , , even when I offer to buy 4. 
I thank her and walk next door where they are similar with similar results 5,000 FRw, , take it or leave it. I left it. I know that Royce has a rack of scarves and though I've not looked closely at them, if I'm to pay full price I'll give the business to Royce. I found a moto about a foot long and 8 inches tall crafted from thick wire with the various parts wrapped in different colored banana leaves. It is quite unique and the wheels rotate. We start @ 5,000 FRw but it's in my hand as I leave for 2,500 FRw. Finally a piece for my work desk. Two carved hands holding a carved map of Rwanda. Each of the districts are outlined. I've seen a hundred of these but most of them add a clumsy etching of the key features for each district (a guerrilla in Nord district, a giraffe in Est District etc.) This one leaves those off and is much cleaner in appearance. The shop keeper started @ 10,000 but I'm getting on the moto having only spent 5,000 FRw ($10 US).
I thank her and walk next door where they are similar with similar results 5,000 FRw, , take it or leave it. I left it. I know that Royce has a rack of scarves and though I've not looked closely at them, if I'm to pay full price I'll give the business to Royce. I found a moto about a foot long and 8 inches tall crafted from thick wire with the various parts wrapped in different colored banana leaves. It is quite unique and the wheels rotate. We start @ 5,000 FRw but it's in my hand as I leave for 2,500 FRw. Finally a piece for my work desk. Two carved hands holding a carved map of Rwanda. Each of the districts are outlined. I've seen a hundred of these but most of them add a clumsy etching of the key features for each district (a guerrilla in Nord district, a giraffe in Est District etc.) This one leaves those off and is much cleaner in appearance. The shop keeper started @ 10,000 but I'm getting on the moto having only spent 5,000 FRw ($10 US). Back in town I visit Royce. She was not able to get the three games I'd ordered but her niece in 
the stall next door has two (and I pay less than I'd promised to pay Royce). Royce does have the scarves and they are as nice as the others. She wants 3,000 FRw and I get three. There is a reason for my soft spot for Royce. She is in her 50's and speaks excellent English. She translated a few weeks ago when I was being taught how to play the African game. Additionally, a few days ago I was shopping for a dress for Shaloy. Royce didn't have what I wanted so the two of us walked into town and went to 5 different shops. I'd say "This one is a nice material but wrong style" then next shop "Right color but wrong material" then as we passed someone on the street. "That style is good and I like the amount of embroidery but wrong color". We kept getting closer and closer to what I wanted for Shaloy until we found it. Then Royce bartered until I got the dress for less than 1/2 what I was planning to pay (which was half of where we started in muzungu prices).
the stall next door has two (and I pay less than I'd promised to pay Royce). Royce does have the scarves and they are as nice as the others. She wants 3,000 FRw and I get three. There is a reason for my soft spot for Royce. She is in her 50's and speaks excellent English. She translated a few weeks ago when I was being taught how to play the African game. Additionally, a few days ago I was shopping for a dress for Shaloy. Royce didn't have what I wanted so the two of us walked into town and went to 5 different shops. I'd say "This one is a nice material but wrong style" then next shop "Right color but wrong material" then as we passed someone on the street. "That style is good and I like the amount of embroidery but wrong color". We kept getting closer and closer to what I wanted for Shaloy until we found it. Then Royce bartered until I got the dress for less than 1/2 what I was planning to pay (which was half of where we started in muzungu prices). Loaded with my purchases, I catch a moto back to the guest house and 
another moto to KBC (my new favorite) for lunch. After eating, a bus is waiting at the stop and only 1/4 full. a quick ride into town and another moto to KHI. The East Africa Summit is in full swing at the Serena and all roads are barricaded within 6 blocks which includes the normal routes to the school. I'm there 15 minutes early for our 3:00 pm "going away event". I've brought my 6 favorite ties to Rwanda and I give away all but my very favorite. They are in excellent condition and you'd have thought I picked them for each person as they matched 
their outfits perfectly. I did insist on showing them how to tie the ties in the current U.S. fashion (extending down so it just hits the belt). The current Kigali trend is a huge knot that leaves the tie only extending halfway down the shirt (which looks fine when sitting but a bit odd when standing). For Matilda I let her choose a scarf (She has excellent taste and picks the one I had intended for Shaloy so I'll have one quick piece of shopping in the a.m.).
another moto to KBC (my new favorite) for lunch. After eating, a bus is waiting at the stop and only 1/4 full. a quick ride into town and another moto to KHI. The East Africa Summit is in full swing at the Serena and all roads are barricaded within 6 blocks which includes the normal routes to the school. I'm there 15 minutes early for our 3:00 pm "going away event". I've brought my 6 favorite ties to Rwanda and I give away all but my very favorite. They are in excellent condition and you'd have thought I picked them for each person as they matched 
their outfits perfectly. I did insist on showing them how to tie the ties in the current U.S. fashion (extending down so it just hits the belt). The current Kigali trend is a huge knot that leaves the tie only extending halfway down the shirt (which looks fine when sitting but a bit odd when standing). For Matilda I let her choose a scarf (She has excellent taste and picks the one I had intended for Shaloy so I'll have one quick piece of shopping in the a.m.). We walk to Karibu and find a table off to the side by ourselves. It's a lovely time to speak kind words to each other and enjoy each other's company. Four of our party are bachelors and we have a grand time talking about marriage, it's attributes, the perfect wife and the perfect time in life to get hitched. I'm given a nice shirt (although I don't know where they found a 2xl in 
Rwanda) and a "Thank You" shadow box with the Rwanda basket. After an hour the waiter tells us it's time to wash our hands (a new one on me) so I comply. John has ordered a fish for every two of us and a plate of chips (French Fries) and salad for each of us. The fish has been cut in two to the spine but is till connected and has been fried on both sides (sort of looks like a huge fried butterfly fish). I'm waiting for the silverware but the others are not. I wasn't fazed to see people eating the fries with their fingers but was startled when John started eating the fish sans silver. The salad (a type of cole slaw) was a bit harder to take. I just let my mind wander back to how I might have eaten at 2 years old and dug in. The fork, knife and spoon where missing on purpose and were never delivered. After eating we went and washed our hands again. It certainly adds another sense to the act of eating.
Rwanda) and a "Thank You" shadow box with the Rwanda basket. After an hour the waiter tells us it's time to wash our hands (a new one on me) so I comply. John has ordered a fish for every two of us and a plate of chips (French Fries) and salad for each of us. The fish has been cut in two to the spine but is till connected and has been fried on both sides (sort of looks like a huge fried butterfly fish). I'm waiting for the silverware but the others are not. I wasn't fazed to see people eating the fries with their fingers but was startled when John started eating the fish sans silver. The salad (a type of cole slaw) was a bit harder to take. I just let my mind wander back to how I might have eaten at 2 years old and dug in. The fork, knife and spoon where missing on purpose and were never delivered. After eating we went and washed our hands again. It certainly adds another sense to the act of eating. 
It's 5:00 pm and time to scatter to each person's next thing. Hugs and goodbyes and confirmation of schedules. Benard is catching a bus to Nairobi @ 5:00 AM, Patrick is flying to Nairobi later in the morning. Patrick & Benard are disappointed to not have had the last lecture and ask if they can come over this evening after supper to receive it. John is going to accompany me to the Airport @ 1:30 Friday. I call Terry who is coming back from Butare and I catch a ride home with him. When we arrive at the house there has been no water all day and none is promised for this 
evening. I'm sad to say I "lose it" with Philbert who has known all day but not gotten any back up plans. There isn't any water to flush the stools, drink or cook with. It's all gone and what we had in the reservoir was used today to clean the sidewalks and do laundry. I insist that even though it's past 6:00 pm he Bosco and have enough delivered so we can have water to boil for drinking and to flush the toilets. After the call he's non-commital as to when/if it'll arrive. He used my phone to call so we call right back and I speak with Bosco insisting that they deliver water tonight. I walk with Terry to Africa Bite. I'm still full of fish but enjoy an African Tea while he eats brochettes.
evening. I'm sad to say I "lose it" with Philbert who has known all day but not gotten any back up plans. There isn't any water to flush the stools, drink or cook with. It's all gone and what we had in the reservoir was used today to clean the sidewalks and do laundry. I insist that even though it's past 6:00 pm he Bosco and have enough delivered so we can have water to boil for drinking and to flush the toilets. After the call he's non-commital as to when/if it'll arrive. He used my phone to call so we call right back and I speak with Bosco insisting that they deliver water tonight. I walk with Terry to Africa Bite. I'm still full of fish but enjoy an African Tea while he eats brochettes. When we arrive back at the house there is water in buckets to get us through the night. Terry had piled up the materials he'll take to the new guest house in the morning. We are both quite surprised to find Philbert agitated about what was being claimed as property of the Canadian Anesthesiologists. There is a long, loud and heated discussion about what belongs to whom. It's not my fight though & I retreat else I may find myself exploding. Terry will certainly capable to sort it out in some fashion. Patrick and Benard arrive around 9:30 pm and we do that last hour of lecture. One more set of hugs and I work some more on packing the last bit of stuff. I'm trying to leave or sell anything I can replace in the U.S. so I give some clothes and sell my cell phone, computer camera and two jump drives to Dubali.
Friday morning the mood is not much better in the house. Terry and I catch a ride with the CHK driver to the new guest house to deliver the stuff. We can only get into the kitchen as the rest of the house is locked up tight and only "Claire" has a key. Off to CHK to leave a computer and cell phone for the Canadian Anesthesiologist with the local coordinator (Terry is not being replaced for two months so there is no other secure place to leave the two most valuable items) Back to KHI to find "Claire" and Abdhul. Back to the new guest house with a key and now we can properly lock Terry's stuff into the cupboards of the suite assigned to the anesthesiologists.
On to Mpore to deliver the clippers and give 
instruction on their use, cleaning, oiling and disinfecting. We stop at a store to get some bleach and I'm astounded to pay 7,000 FRw ($14 US) for 2 liters. I'm so amazed I ask Terry to come in and make sure I've not misunderstood but the man insists 7,000 FRw. Gotta have and no time to comparison shop. On to Mpore. They are delighted to receive the electric clippers and promise no more loose razor blades for cutting hair. I leave my triple head razor and a pack of blades as well. We spend 
45 minutes and 5 hair cuts are given by three different people and we're very comfortable that they know how to use them and will oil them, "2 drops after each head". We visit for a little with the lady who runs the orphanage and I'll share the contact information if you feel inclined to help directly with a place that could really use some assistance.
instruction on their use, cleaning, oiling and disinfecting. We stop at a store to get some bleach and I'm astounded to pay 7,000 FRw ($14 US) for 2 liters. I'm so amazed I ask Terry to come in and make sure I've not misunderstood but the man insists 7,000 FRw. Gotta have and no time to comparison shop. On to Mpore. They are delighted to receive the electric clippers and promise no more loose razor blades for cutting hair. I leave my triple head razor and a pack of blades as well. We spend 
45 minutes and 5 hair cuts are given by three different people and we're very comfortable that they know how to use them and will oil them, "2 drops after each head". We visit for a little with the lady who runs the orphanage and I'll share the contact information if you feel inclined to help directly with a place that could really use some assistance. On the way home we pass the Consortium. I run walk in and buy the game that I'd spotted 
yesterday and the scarf (at full price) for Shaloy. Back to the house to pack for an hour and then lunch @ KBC and it's time to go. Saidi and Betty have come to ride with me to the airport. John is late and a call to KHI finds he hasn't left yet. Shake hands goodbye with Philbert and safe journey goodbye to Terry. Another call to John to let him know we're going and it's off to the Airport.
yesterday and the scarf (at full price) for Shaloy. Back to the house to pack for an hour and then lunch @ KBC and it's time to go. Saidi and Betty have come to ride with me to the airport. John is late and a call to KHI finds he hasn't left yet. Shake hands goodbye with Philbert and safe journey goodbye to Terry. Another call to John to let him know we're going and it's off to the Airport. Yesterday, when there was still a bit of time I almost got emotional about leaving my new friends. Now when there is only a few minutes left, I'm too excited to be on my home to cry now.
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